What is Sustainable Fashion? The paradox

FASHION AND IDENTITY

COLOR

FASHION

FASHION
Definition + etymology
Noun:
Aka clothes industry → production and marketing of new garments and cosmetics (couture, glamour,..)
Latest or most admired/popular (in style, clothes, cosmetics, behaviour)
Manner of doing

Verb:
To give form to (smth); to make into particular form
To make suitable or fitting

https://www.dictionary.com/browse/fashion?s=t

Etymology:

VERB → NOUN:

c. 1300, fasoun, "physical make-up or composition; form, shape; appearance," from Old French façon, fachon, fazon "face, appearance; construction, pattern, design; thing done; beauty; manner, characteristic feature" (12c.), from Latin factionem (nominative factio) "a making or doing, a preparing," also "group of people acting together," from facere "to make" (from PIE root *dhe- "to set, put").

Especially "style, manner" of make, dress, or embellishment (late 14c.); hence "prevailing custom; mode of dress and adornment prevailing in a place and time" (late 15c.). Meaning "good style, conformity to fashionable society's tastes" is from 1630s.

In Middle English also spelled faschyoun, facune, faction, etc. Fashion plate (1851) originally was "full-page picture in a popular magazine showing the prevailing or latest style of dress," in reference to the typographic plate from which it was printed. Transferred sense of "well-dressed person" had emerged by 1920s. After a fashion "to a certain extent" is from 1530s. Shakespeare (c. 1600) has both in fashion and out of fashion.

+(pos/advantages)
Groups
Identification (eg, religious, sub-cultural), belonging, relation, sharing, acceptance


Expression
Wordless communication
Emotions, preferences
First thing you see → can be a medium to deliver a message “Choose Life” “Teach Peace”
Beneficial to individuals → then society (when acceptance and understanding comes in)

Practical
Protective - physically, weather, cold, dirt conditions




Curiosity
Has to do with inspiration → can be drawn form everywhere any many different circumstances
Experimentation
Art
Attraction
Happiness (?)
-(neg/disadvantages)
Groups
Dissociations, judgment, hierarchy, bullying, rejection, pressure, classist (high/low)
Stereotyping (?)

Expression
Hate, discomfort to others
Mask - hidhing behind a way of dress (-/+? → protective incertain societies and communities)
Weapon ^^ (uniform for abolishing distinctions, removing freedoms as well)

Consumerism
Materialism
Mass production → consumption
Costs of production ++++
Fast Fashion
Greed
Desire (-/+)
Self-esteem → mental and emotional health
Pressure
Unethical production processes, cheap labour, unsafe / unsanitary factory working conditions

Industry waste → one of the largest global players

Relevant info
“FASHION IS REVEALING”
“FASHION IS A LANGUAGE”
“FASHION TELLS A STORY’

Constantly changing, influenced by time and other artistic expressions, music, film, art
Television, books -> characters
Influences constantly, also from previous fashion
Deal with it every day → even the style of those that say they don’t care about fashion, items are chosen to be worn that morning will say smth, have something attributed to
What dictates popular fashion and trends?
Cultural “Icons” → musicians, actors, artists
Political figs. & Royalty (eg Diana)
Media → whats reported by newspapers, magazines (nowadays social media and various digital platforms means more user/public agency over this)

Endless popularity contest:
Haute couture - gate keepers - wealthy small circles dictating high fashion- mostly stays on runway, while some get adopted into the majority (by Zara, Topshop...)
From streets to runway → popular modes being adopted by the fashion industry, and the opposite → from media to the people (tv shows)
^ Television → “But the direction of fashion relies on “plugged-in” individuals to react to events, and trends in music, art and books.”

SUSTAINABLITY

Able to continue over a period of time
(ENVIRONMENT) - causing little or no damage to the environment, therefore able to continue for a long time
Able to be maintained or continued

https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/sustainable

Of or relating to a lifestyle involving the use of sustainable methods

https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/sustainable

















DARK SIDE OF 'SUSTAINABILITY': SUSTAINABILITY AS A LABEL

Sustainable labeling —> unintended neg consequence:
Compliance orientated labeling of products and brands —> overshooting intended goals —> lack or provision of production processes in foreign countries factories, and effects of such practices, easily slid by
Same with force and putting bans on certain production types —> not allowing people in factories in China and Bangladesh to have work because against fast fashion means no income for a large low-income population, which cannot feed their families

Banning working conditions may lead to more drastic, illegal ways of receiving income for these people (in terms of ethical production, eg child labor —> child prostitution)


Cannot ascertain producers who want certain fairtrade/sustainable labels (to attract customers, be able to increase prices in and sit in a niche market) will follow the rules responsibly, once label is achieved from sustainable standard setters —> either not sure how to comply to rules completely or simply do not care to

Full transparency demanded from label makers and standard setters is just not feasible, and a lot of responsibility is left to each business owners, and even countries to prioritize this kind of regulation

(international)Standard setters thus also being ignorant to local interpretations of sustainability

BRANDS

Patagonia

Columbia

Epoque Evolution

Everlane

Eileen Fisher

Gypsy Sport

THE REFORMATION

United Wardrobe

H&M Conscious

Pact

Levi’s

Epoque Evolution

Depop

Body Shop

ThredUP

Read into these brands, find what’s sustainable for you, and educate yourself on what separates them from non sustainable production.

MAKING CHOICES

GET LOCAL!

GET LOCAL!

CHEAP FASHION

episode

Susan Bijl

Deerhunter Vintage

Natur-el

OSKA

De Groene passage

What does your style mean to you?